TingSter
ไทย
running, trail · DECEMBER 15, 2016

UltraTrail Panoramic 100km

UltraTrail Panoramic 100km

UltraTrail Panoramic

The first 100-mile trail race in Thailand, crafted by “Teelakaow” (One Step at a Time). Being the first of its kind, it naturally attracted runners eager to take on the challenge. With intense promotion and the stunning course stretching from Mae Hong Son to Pai district, it was irresistibly tempting and challenged my abilities beyond measure. I didn’t hesitate to sign up immediately.

UltraTrail Panoramic

One thing I’d gain from this race was about 5 points from i-tra. What for? These points are calculated based on the difficulty of the race and can be collected to apply for major world races such as UTMB (UltraTrail Du Mont-Blanc), which requires a total of 9 points to enter.

After finishing Columbia Trail Master in Nong Yai, Chonburi, I planned my next 100km race. Given the relatively high entry fee, I needed some sponsorship. Buzzwoo! is the company I work for, and the Buzzwoo! Active project is a great initiative that encourages employees to run together, donating to orphans and stray dogs at 10 baht per kilometer, with a target of 100,000 baht per year. They were happy to support me for the 100km UltraTrail Panoramic. A huge thank you to them!

How Did I Train?

I’ll admit I had a great 100km training plan in hand but never actually followed it. Call it an excuse or a reason, but I simply “didn’t have time” and could barely allocate time for long training sessions.

But it’s not like I didn’t train at all. During holidays, I managed some long trail runs. Chiang Mai has Doi Suthep-Pui for regular trail runs, plus several other courses. I spent most of my mornings running up Doi Suthep trail, doing repeats when time allowed. Some days I’d switch to hill repeats behind Huay Tung Tao, or tempo runs on the MTB track.

Buzzwoo! Active Running Clinic was another great company initiative. Every Tuesday, running enthusiasts would join training sessions coached by Harry Jones. While it focused more on road running — intervals, running skills, and fartlek — rather than trail running, it was great for getting advice and asking questions. That was my training. And yes, it wasn’t enough. T-T

What I really wanted to practice was night running — just to understand how my body would feel and respond during nighttime so I could prepare properly. Conveniently, my friend Nemo was running the 100km Pong Yang Trail, so I became her pacer. Read about it in Pacer PongYang Trail 100. Thanks to that experience, I could prepare for many things before the actual race.

Gear Freak? What Did I Prepare?

Nothing special for gear — I kept it simple. Initially, I planned not to use trekking poles, but after seeing the elevation graph of the final mountain, I borrowed Nemo’s to try. For headlamps, I brought two just in case (one borrowed from Nemo). Same hydration pack as always.

Since it was winter, I packed a windbreaker and a running jacket. Two pairs of socks, four buffs — lessons from Pong Yang taught me to keep one around my neck, one over mouth and nose, one on my head, since cold night air would invite a cold. Plus a cap and arm sleeves for sun and cold protection.

My biggest concern was nutrition. I spent a long time planning what to eat and when. I consulted Prince from Doctor Sport about pre-race, during-race, and post-race nutrition, including supplements. Thank you, Prince!

Race Day: 2.5 Hours in a Truck!!!!

The race started at around 10:00 AM, but we had to board transport at Pai Wittayakarn School and leave our drop bags there. Last shuttle departed at 6 AM!!!!

Arriving at the school in the cold weather, I prepared my drop bag and registered. Still debating whether to bring trekking poles — ultimately decided to take them. I expected a van but got a 4WD pickup truck instead. Before the race even started, we were bouncing around the whole way — wind, cold weather, dust everywhere, bottoms aching from potholes. Everyone complained the entire ride.

UltraTrail Panoramic

First thing upon arriving at Ban Mak Prik School: eat! They had rice porridge, fried rice, congee, omelets. I grabbed some porridge with meatballs — enough to fill up without feeling heavy. Then I prepped my hydration pack, organized my gear, and decided to stow the windbreaker. Everything ready. Let’s go!!!

The 100km Epic Begins

The start line also served as a checkpoint for the 100-mile runners. We could see many 100-milers coming and going — truly admirable. Local hill tribe children lined up at the school gate in traditional costumes, bright and cheerful. The warm, simple atmosphere was quintessential Teelakaow. Everyone ready. Countdown. 5 4 3 2 1 GO!!!!!!

UltraTrail Panoramic

Where’s the Downhill?

About 500 meters in, we hit steep climbs. I thought it would be normal ups and downs. Looking at the map on my BIB — hey, there’s no uphill marked here! Yet it kept climbing endlessly. I looked at the BIB again and again. There’s no uphill on this map!!! RD got us good — I could picture P’Nop’s smirk from miles away. Grateful I didn’t stash the trekking poles; they came in handy right from the start.

After about 3-4km, we passed A4 thinking wow, that was fast. No one stopped since A4 had nothing — no water, nothing. Kept climbing, hoping for downhill soon.

Finally, downhill! Long descents with occasional climbs. Should I push the pace or take it easy? Watching others fly down like birds, I decided to save myself and cruise. Beautiful scenery — thin clouds weaving between mountains. Morning would’ve meant a sea of fog. Loose gravel mixed with hard-packed dirt, some slippery spots, but my Altra Lone Peak 3.0 handled it perfectly. Steep sections got the trekking pole brake treatment.

Emerging onto the dusty road from the morning drive, P’Nop drove by servicing runners, mentioning the crew set up A4 too early and water hadn’t arrived yet. He topped off my water — CP1 was still far and I’d run dry without it. I grabbed a Coke in my bottle and headed for CP1.

The Road to CP1

Beautiful scenery on the way — mountain views, cornfields, a village nestled in the valley. I stopped to admire the view multiple times. Mixed downhill and uphill with some concrete sections.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Dust everywhere whenever vehicles passed. Good thing I had a buff around my neck to cover my nose. Visibility near zero. Passed many 100-milers, shaking hands and saluting every single one.

Long descents with occasional uphills for knee relief. Getting hotter with more sun. The final stretch to CP1 was all concrete — trying hard to save my knees as they started feeling fatigued.

Made it to CP1! Everyone loved this checkpoint — so charming you’d want to stay forever. Cartoon and P’Tor were there. Quick photos, some water, then time to move on. A5 awaited.

A Problem I Never Expected!

Next station: A5, which had made-to-order food. I planned to have lunch there around 3 PM. Running on concrete, up and down, staying with other runners. After long concrete descents, my knees and joints were seriously fatiguing.

Getting hotter, running under more sun. Hungry, I grabbed an Energy Bar — choked on the fifth bite. Had to stop. The choking caused diaphragm pain. Concerning, but probably just from exhaustion.

UltraTrail Panoramic

After recovering from the choking, something I never expected happened: severe bloating and indigestion. Couldn’t run anymore — power walking only. Everyone pulled ahead while I was stuck. I remembered P’Em offering digestive medicine before the race, which I’d declined since I’d never had indigestion before. Well, look at me now.

A terrible stretch. Kept telling myself it would digest eventually. Each time I tried running, the bloating stopped me. Hated running on concrete. T-T Finally reached A5.

A5: Made-to-Order Food… So What? T_T

Arrived at A5 to find runners happily eating. Entered feeling nauseous. Removed my pack to cool down. Had to eat something — no rice until CP2. Wanted fried rice but settled for a big bowl of porridge given my condition.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Hot porridge served. One spoonful and I knew — nothing going down. Stomach completely full, nothing digesting. T-T All I could manage was two oranges. Had to apologize to the cook and crew for ordering porridge I couldn’t eat. I’m truly sorry.

No point staying at A5. Packed up, grabbed another orange, two bananas, a Coke, apologized again, sprayed my knees, and headed toward CP2 through the village.

Bloating Finally Gone

Leaving A5 through the village, locals cheered us on. Kids helped point the way since signs weren’t clear. Through farmland — beautiful path but still couldn’t run. Villagers grew what I guessed was garlic or cilantro, with sprinklers cooling us down.

Ate oranges hoping to speed up digestion, plus flat Coke. Gradually improving. Could manage light jogging. Beautiful views through cornfields along the Pai River. Locals driving by in clouds of dust, everyone cheering.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Cooling down as evening approached. Walking and jogging along dusty white paths. Birds returning to nests, sun setting, gorgeous weather with evening fog. Stopped to prep my headlamp with 3A batteries. When would CP2 come?

Running with headlamp now in the dark. Village vehicles returning from farms meant we were close. Through another village on concrete roads. Locals told runners just a few hundred meters to the rest point. Finally hit the main road, turned left, and there it was — CP2! Halfway done!!!!

The Never-ending 10km to A6

At CP2, first person I saw was P’Nop. Cartoon and P’Tor were there too. Found Rene sitting there — why was he still here? Only snacks, bananas, and oranges to eat. Runners warming by the fire. Bloating was completely gone now, everything back to normal.

Rene had DNF’d — the daytime heat was too extreme for his body. Safety first. Asked P’Nop about A6: instant noodles, bread, snacks, and a tent for sleeping. Changed plans immediately — better to eat and rest there than sit here doing nothing. Prepped and left CP2.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Staff said 10km to A6 — easy jog, about an hour. Ran through villages. Late night, lots of drinkers around. Alone and uneasy. Cars not slowing down — had to flash my light to warn them.

Long dark lonely road to A6. Ran alone almost the entire race. Easy jogging mixed with walking to save energy for the brutal final climb. Getting eerie. A cemetery on the left?! Walking turned to running real quick.

Far from any village now, I spotted what lay ahead and cursed. More mountains?! What about my instant noodles?! Nothing to do but plant the trekking poles and climb.

Watch said 11km. Where’s A6??? Who said 10km?! Ended up being 14km to A6. Finally found it.

Eat, Rest, Sleep — Saving Energy for Doi Miang

P’Tor and Cartoon still at A6. Thanks to Cartoon for cooking instant noodles. P’Nop said I could use the tent. Obviously — it was freezing outside! Grabbed my drop bag too.

Put on compression tights over my shorts, added the warm jacket, prepped everything. Demolished the instant noodles. Time to sleep — 30-minute nap, head hit the ground, lights out instantly.

Phone alarm went off — felt like I hadn’t even slept! Got up, ate bananas and oranges outside the tent, then headed for CP3, 5km away.

Alone in the Scrubland

Left A6 — no more concrete. Ran out with a Brunei runner. Colder now as midnight approached. Single warm layer, buffs covering everything but my eyes. Let the Brunei runner go ahead.

Flat terrain gave way to small hills, winding through forest on village motorcycle paths. Dogs barking furiously in a village — please don’t chase me, I’ve got nothing left. Through another village, then CP3.

Delicious Porridge, Bamboo Forest, and Midnight Cemetery

CP3 had porridge, noodles, and coffee. One warm bowl of porridge — delicious. Getting sleepy though. Staff offered a hammock — 30-minute nap please.

Jolted awake after just 15 minutes — too cold without moving. Can’t sleep? Might as well keep going. Left CP3, passed a resort at midnight. Tourists singing and drinking — tempting to join for a glass or two. Jogged on past a reservoir that must be beautiful in daylight.

Past the reservoir, leaving the community, entering forest. Stumbled upon the crew’s !!! warning signs. Usually marks danger — slippery, cliff edge. But the path here was normal. Stopped, looked left.

Another cemetery. Crematorium, pavilions, the works. Second cemetery of this race. Thanks for the excitement, Teelakaow. Sprint mode activated.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Shone my light around then bolted. Into bamboo forest. Climbing began. Steep, checking the elevation graph constantly. Dangerous section — dark, narrow single track with warning signs.

Bamboo forest in darkness with a cliff on the left. Walking carefully, no running — too scared of slipping. Steeper and steeper, cliff switching to the right. Occasional views. Note to P’Nop: next time, let us run this in daylight.

Met two runners — a woman looking exhausted, possibly nauseous, with a male companion. Passed on. Kept climbing in the cold. Met a 100-miler carefully descending. Incredible. Found the motorcycle crew napping on the summit — scored two cups of Coke.

Chatted briefly, then steep slippery descent. Trekking poles braking constantly. Down to the road, crossed a river (checked depth with poles first, went around the side), through a village, and finally A7.

The Legendary Doi Miang

Rested at A7 with boiled eggs and snacks. Two eggs at 1 AM — delicious. Still paranoid about eating gels after the bloating incident. Watch showed 70km. Refilled water. Time to tackle Doi Miang.

Left A7 through farmland — all uphill now. Not incredibly steep but enough to get breathing hard. Sky opened up, stars everywhere. Had to turn off my headlamp and look up. Hadn’t seen this many stars in years. Truly beautiful.

The climbing intensified. Checked the BIB graph with a sinking feeling — the real deal was starting. Steeper than Pong Yang’s final section. Concrete mixed with dirt — no automatic transmission car could make this climb.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Click-clack-click-clack — trekking poles hitting dirt rhythmically. No end in sight. Stopped to stargaze often. Counted steps, scrolled Facebook, anything to keep going.

In another perspective, this was time free from distractions. Alone with my thoughts. More focused. Missed my daughter — watched her videos while climbing. When would this end?

Finally hit a road with a descent — nearly cried with relief. But the arrow pointed right, not down. More climbing! Dirt only now, same relentless grade.

Saw a sign: “Viewpoint 3km.” Nearly cried again. Fried rice with omelet, that’s all I wanted. The graph said it should go down to reach A8. Wanted to tear that graph apart. Kept climbing. Met Oob-Ib in Auto Pilot mode — asked me to walk together to stay awake.

Walked and complained together on the steep path, keeping drowsiness at bay. Nearly 5 AM. When would it go down? When would we see lights? Complained on.

Finally, A8! Ordered a hearty fried egg on rice — hot, fragrant, heavenly. Slept while waiting. Too cold to actually sleep. Best fried egg rice ever at 6 AM as the sun rose over a sea of fog. Standing at the viewpoint at 1,675 meters above sea level. Open sky, fog below — perfect for coffee and a sunrise. Met Oat, thought he’d already finished. No time to linger. Had to go.

The Descent to Mantou

Left A8 heading for CP4. Staff said it’s all downhill. Minutes later — uphill! Three of us cursed in unison. More steep climbing! No headlamp needed now, daylight. Mountain views with sea of fog on the left. Heaven. Finally, real downhill.

UltraTrail Panoramic

The plan was: fuel up with egg rice, then run downhill. But this descent took longer than the climb. Too slippery and steep to run — would definitely tumble. Trekking poles braking constantly. Couldn’t even slide down — too steep and curvy.

Entered beautiful pine forest. Doi Miang was genuinely stunning. Runnable terrain in the pines, softer ground. About 1-2km of pine forest bliss before another brutal steep, slippery descent. Worried about snapping the trekking poles.

Spotted a photographer — good sign we were close. “How far, bro?” “One and a half km!” Please don’t be lying. Eventually the brutal descent ended. Motorcycle crew said even driving up was exhausting.

Gentler terrain, runnable. Past a second photographer, running hard now. Through lychee orchards, past a third photographer. Finally broke through to CP4. Tourists everywhere for the sea of fog. Ran to find the crew. Mantou!!! So hungry!!!

Battery Low!

Chatting with staff when the watch warned: battery critical!!! 91km done. Bolted from Yun Lai immediately, heading into Pai town. 10km of road to go. Almost there but the watch was dying!!!

Tourists everywhere for the sea of fog and Chinese village. Traffic jammed with bikes and bicycles. Pushing Pace 5, egg rice fueling the engine. Watch warning getting more frequent. Nervous it’d die before 100km. Local volunteers directing traffic at every intersection — amazing. Only fear now: dead battery!!!

UltraTrail Panoramic

Passed many runners walking and running to the finish — apologies to all, my watch had 5% left and I needed that 100km recorded! Through Pai town, into Pai Wittayakarn School. The finish line ahead!!!!

Finally I Did It!

Announcer called out the 100km runner approaching. All staff gathered at the finish line. Crossed it. Medal around my neck. Rene was first to congratulate me. Photos, finisher shirt. The Brunei runner who’d finished earlier came to congratulate me after we’d traded places multiple times. Done. Finally done. And beautifully done — the course, the crew, and the friendships.

UltraTrail Panoramic

Special Thanks

Thanks to Oat and Nuk for driving back and forth. P’Tor and Cartoon for the friendship and care — glad to have met you. Nemo for the survival gear. P’Em for companionship and accommodation. The Tao crew for cheering and support. The motorcycle crew for course-wide support. The photography team for beautiful shots. The Teelakaow crew for facilitating everything. The RD for finding this incredible course. My family for their encouragement. And finally, thank you for all the support: Buzzwoo! & Buzzwoo! Asia.

UltraTrail Panoramic

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